Best Tile For Outdoor Kitchen Countertop

by Jim Wilson
(Mosinee, Wisconsin)

QUESTION:

I live in north central Wisconsin -lots of freezing and thawing- I wanted to build outdoor kitchen tile countertops with porcelain tile.

I read in an article not to use procelain or ceramic tile countertops in our climate. What is your advice, and if I can't use tile what's an alternative?

ANSWER:

Jim, true some "tile" (many ceramic tiles) should not be installed outdoors because it absorbs too much moisture and the freeze/thaw cycle will cause it to crack.

Porcelain tile (in general) has a very low absorbency rate and is typically fine for exterior installations.

You have pretty rough winters there, so I can't say that you'll never have a problem with porcelain tile, but there isn't any better tile to install given your situation.

Make sure you buy porcelain tile rated for outdoor kitchen use and have it installed by a pro experienced and skilled in outdoor and tile countertop installations.

Other options are granite tile and granite slab. The absorbency rate of granite can vary though, so you must test samples to find a granite that won't absorb water.

Good Luck,
Ryan

Outdoor Kitchen Tile Countertop Substrate

by Steve
(New Hampshire)

QUESTION:

We plan to build outdoor kitchen counter top substrate using 3/4" outdoor rated plywood. The Counter will have a roof over it. The tile will be 2"x2" porcelain (1/4" - 5/16" thick).

Do I need to put a cement backer board down or can I simply put a 1/8" thick later of thinset (with additive) and let it fully cure then install the tile using the normal notched trowel method of laying down thinset and tile?

Trying to avoid the cement backer board hassle... if I have to use a backer material how thick and what type? Note we are in a winter climate state (NH) but the counter will have a solid roof over it...

ANSWER:

Yeah, installing cement backer board can be a pain, but this is not a project you ever want to have to do over.

Using a "waterproof" (not just moisture resistant) backer is one way to do it, however, you can go another route and cover the plywood base with a waterproof membrane and then tile over it with granite or porcelain tile. Ceramic tile is okay in hot, dry environments.

You really should be using 1 1/8" marine grade plywood subsrate though when you build outdoor kitchens.

If you lived in a dry climate like Arizona, I'd say you could probably get away with just the plywood if you also sealed/painted the plywood.

But you live in NH and even with a roof the plywood will be subjected to plenty of moisture, which will take it's toll.

Outdoor plywood will still rot when exposed to moisture long enough. The only difference is that it's made with a water-proof glue, so you need to properly protect it with a long-lasting durable paint outdoors (before laying the waterproof cement backer or membrane).

So, your outdoor kitchen plans should definitely include attaching a waterproof layer (backer or membrane) to the plywood.

Good Luck,
Ryan